The centre of Samos is dominated by a mountain range which stretches between the north and south coasts. The largest of these mountains is Mount Ambelos (Όρος Ἀμπελος) in the north, with its highest point at the summit of Karvouni (Καρβούνι), 1153 metres above sea level (see gallery page 34 and gallery page 43).

On the north coast east-west travel across the island is possible due to a road along the narrow coastal strip between Agios Antonios in the east, via Vathy, Kokkari, as far west as Agios Nikolaos (west of Karlovasi). In the centre of the island a road winds through a mountain pass via the village of Pyrgos.

South of the pass the mountains rise again to 778 metres at Mount Bournias (Μπουρνιάς) and other hills spread across a broad headland jutting out into the Aegean sea between the Gulf of Marathokambos (Κόλπος Μαραθοκάμπου) to the west and Tigani Bay (Ὁρμος Τηγάνι, around  Pythagorio) to the east.

Minor roads and tracks lead around the steep slopes of the south coast of the headland, connecting a couple of small fishing villages and coves, and, as you would expect in Greece, even the most isolated hills are occupied by chapels.

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