A big white truck stands on the quay, ready to take the day's catch to market. Gone are the days when fishermen caught fish for local consumption alone. Worlwide depletion of so-called fish "stocks" or "resources", and globalized markets mean that distant buyers can pay more for red mullet or sea bream than locals. Aegean fish are just as likely to turn up on a restaurant table in London, Tokyo or New York as in an Olympiada taverna. Kali orexi!

You can hardly blame small-scale fishermen for trying to get the best price for their fish: their work can be hard, tedious and dangerous; they have to be mindful of EU fishing quotas and a plethora of regulations; and they have to compete with enormous industrialized factory trawlers, whose enormous nets can take 300-300 tons of fish a day, and are indiscriminate about which marine creatures they ensnare.